Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these narratives and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
